Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Devonshire Terrace - Just Add Spice, pls

And the sun came out!  Yes, London was bathed in gentle sunshine yesterday so I was delighted to have booked lunch at Devonshire Terrace (Devonshire Terrace, London EC2M 4WY) which is a sweet informal restaurant near to Liverpool Street.  I had specifically asked for a table outside and was delighted to be led to one on the terrace in the fresh air and the sun.  Good start, I thought!

With thanks to thisisfunky.com

My guest then arrived and we started to peruse the menu as we sipped our Nelsons Estate Sauvignon Blanc.  As a patriotic South African, I could not imagine anything nicer than this crisp white wine in the sun – unless of course, the wine was a little cheaper.  While, I admit the venue is excellent, £28 seemed a little steep for a bottle which retails for around £9.75.
The menu is eclectic (but thankfully not schizophrenic), looking to cater for people who wanted a light meal, a nice sandwich or a proper lunch.   This is a feature of many Corney and Barrows so I was unsurprised to see that Devonshire Terrace is part of the C&B stable.  My guest chose Fresh grilled tuna Niçoise and I went for the ginger and marinated red chilli slow roast pork belly.   We had additional bok choi with chilli as I love this Asian green and I’m a bit greedy.
As it was a business lunch, I refrained from reaching over and stabbing a fork full of the Niçoise but it looked good.  Nice piece of tuna, the leaves looked well-dressed but not drenched and the potatoes and beans were cooked to just the right crunch.  So there was a big tick from a happy business contact.
So when I dug into my lunch, I was to be frank, a little disappointed.  I could taste each of the ingredients – except for the ginger or chilli that is.  The roast pork belly was lovely and there was a great shard of crackling but there was no zing of chilli or heat from the ginger.  I would also suggest that while I know that I need to be careful with salt and pepper, I do actually want some involved in my food – or at least the option to add some more.  Sadly, Devonshire Terrace appears to be a modern restaurant which doesn’t believe in having these condiments on the table.  The Bok Choi didn’t show any evidence of seasoning or chilli either.
I had to order myself a second glass of wine to console myself and we enjoyed this in the sun.  The bill came to around £90 and while I felt the food was overpriced, I was happy to pay the service charge as the waiter service – while a little scattered – was charming and probably the best part of Devonshire Terrace.
Great service, lovely location but please lets season the food.
L x

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