It doesn’t matter which side of the fence you sit on
when it comes to the validity of the awards, if you get the opportunity to
visit a Michelin starred restaurant, you get that little frizz of excitement. So
when I booked a table at Galvin
La Chapelle for lunch, I was rather enthusiastic to say the least.
The restaurant is at the edge of the achingly-cool
Spitalfields market and situated in an old Chapel which gives this – the third
restaurant opened by the Brothers Galvin – a soaring roof and touches of sheer
elegance. On arrival (having gotten a little lost as
they also have a Brassiere attached), I was greeted warmly and then escorted to
my table by the delightful servicing staff – really friendly but professional.
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| With thanks to www.cwconsult.co.uk |
The table was arguably one of the best in the house –
against the wall in a little protected cocoon of soft seating. So glorious was the view and atmosphere in
fact, that when my lunch guest was 10 minutes late, I simply ordered a G&T
and enjoyed being in the moment (as those nice psychologists say).
When he arrived – having learnt not to be libellous
or to be libellous depending on how you thought about the training – we perused
the menu and I realise I had made an error.
I had tried to do Michelin star on the cheap – yes, we had vouchers for
the Prix Fixe which was £24 per person including a glass of champagne.
Now the champagne was buttery, light and gorgeous but the choices
were a little limited (3 per course) and as they were tacked on to the main
menu, I rather felt like a child outside a sweetshop peering in at all the
goodies I couldn’t have. We chose
veloute of English peas and truffle cream as well as grilled mackerel, fennel,
grapefruit and cucumber to start.
Both were pretty as a picture when they arrived but I did find the
veloute a little confusing as I had through it was a sauce but it had far more
in common with a light pea soup. The mackerel
was good, it was nice and it was sadly just mackerel done well. Now I know that I am being picky but I had
rather hoped for more.
For mains, I went for the Grilled tranche of calves liver, pomme purée,
Alsace bacon and girolles while my dining companion when for Pavé of Icelandic
cod, Puy lentils, carrot and cumin purée.
As we enjoyed a glass of white wine we discussed our choices and
furiously googled Pave only to find this referred to any rectangular or square
food – less exciting than we had imagined.
The liver arrived and I immediately resolved to marry Eric
Jolibois. I don’t know the man and he
may have many bad habits but if he can prepare liver like this, I am prepared
to overlook almost anything – potentially everything. The liver was cooked to perfection with that
almost slightly might be a little under done texture and the pomme puree was
like very very good sex. In fact, my
dining companion did look a little worried as I was making happy noises as I
ate it.
The Pave of cod also looked good and apparently the
carrot and cumin puree was spectacular but I think that I got the better deal
[that marriage offer still stands]. We
finished with tea, coffee and little French truffles, macrons and cakelets.
So, would I go back?
Most definitely but I would probably order from the wider menu,
potentially order the liver for starter, main and desert before wandering into
the kitchen to enquire about Eric Jolibois marital status.
L xx
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