Hungover in Dubrovnik

Last year was – to be frank – awful!  Following a merger, I found myself working with people who fundamentally challenged my core values and made me feel that all my experience – at the heart of how I make decisions – was worthless.  After several months, I did final did something that I should have done far sooner, I resigned.  My mental, physical and emotional health was far more important.

And (after the world’s longest notice period) I left – without a job to go to – but with the lightest feeling in my soul I had had for 18-months.   To celebrate my emancipation, my best friend booked us a long weekend in Dubrovnik.

For those of you who have yet to succumb to the Game of Thrones hysteria, the Old City of Dubrovnik in Croatia is the setting for Kings Landing and arguably one of the prettiest towns around.  Our arrival was typically hysterical.   Imagine two very hungover PR’s after two flights (London to Zagreb and Zagreb to Dubrovnik – no direct flights in February) and a half hour taxi ride from the airport along cliff top roads to the Old Town with Lewis Hamilton’s Croatian Brother.

We were flagging – I might even have been whimpering – when the nice taxi driver stopped talking on his mobile, pulled up at the outskirts of Dubrovnik and told us that it was a walking town so we needed to hop to it.   A wet winding walk though a glorious stone Disney land led us to the worlds cutest Airbnb nestled in the harbour walls.

And a nap – thank the gods of Westeros – for a nap!   Having started the day with a bloody Mary and a few peanut snacks, we were now hungry and consulting “aunty google” as to the best restaurant to sooth our fragile souls.  And Konoba Dalmatino popped up!   A restaurant based on the ‘slow food’ concept with a little Croatian fairy dust run by a South African Export – what is not to love.

So what is Croatian food?  It is local with each region having its specialities (Dubrovnik celebrates Dalmatian food) and you can see echoes of Greek, Italian, Turkish and Hungarian cuisines.   After all, this is a country on the Mediterranean – something that is often forgotten.  They also celebrate local food and providence is key.

Having tackled the warren of Dubrovnik old town, we stumbled through the door into a warm comforting world and an eclectic exciting menu which played to locally sourced produce.   The discussion was intense, who tried what and what wine was right. 

Some might imagine that a day off the sauce might be the best cure for a hangover but we are made of sterner stuff and chose a gorgeous bottle of Croatian red.  Prior to arriving I knew nothing about Croatian wine but soon fell in love with the bold rounded flavors of their reds – just the right anecdote for the wet wild weather they were experiencing.

I chose Octopus Salad – a glorious mixture of soft unctuous seafood with capers, onions and tomato – and my friend was seduced by the local mussels.   Or rather, I think she might have been trying to seduce them given the joy and noises that I could hear from the other side of the table.  Before, I wondered if privacy might be the right way forward, mains arrived.

I had veal skewers with smoked bacon, porcini mushroom risotto and chili mint sauce.  Veal is a difficult meat to eat in that I wish it didn’t exist, I wish that diary didn’t see thousands of male calves have horribly short lives but I don’t know the answer and want to support those who keep it local.  Succulent and tasty, this Croatian take on veal was a true guilty pleasure.

My friend chose truffle pasta and due to the fact that this is a child friendly blog, I’ve decided not to dwell on this anymore but suffice to say, she seemed very happy – flushed even.  And so we stumbled into the night, heading to bed and three more days of adventure in Dubrovnik – a glorious walking city with fantastic food that you must visit.

Lx

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