Getting Under the Skin of Athens

Weekend breaks are the thing of sanity!  The option to check out by checking in to another city – another culture.  And Athens offers all that and more.  A dose of history in a vibrant slightly spiky city fill of unashamedly patriotic Greeks.  Quite obviously, we had to do the history thing so my friend and I visited the museum before sipping wine with a view of the Acropolis but the food tour the next day was the highlight for this hungry blogger.

Booked via viator, the Athena Food Tour was led by Anais who did a superb job wrangling the American honeymooners, the Russian duo and the slightly hungover Brits.  Meeting at the unholy hour of 9:30 in the morning, we started with koulouri which is the traditional weekday Greek breakfast – essentially a sesame seed covered slightly dry bagel.  Sweet fulfilling but think I might stick to fruit – efkaristo.

As a savory girl through and through, the next stop for Loukoumades scared me.   Ethereally light honey and cinnamon covered Greek donuts which at one point were given to the victors at sporting events served in an Athenian institution. What happened if I didn’t like them?  Would I be barred from the country?  While tooth achingly sweet, they were rather moreish – even for me! 

Almost as an anecdote, we then plunged into the central Athens (Varakios Agora) market – a wonderland for the committed cook.  Used by Grannies and restaurants alike, the produce was simply beautiful – although the wet floors of the fishmarket brought out the princess in me as I raised my skirts and tiptoed swiftly through the chaos.  This is most definitely not just for show and I had to keep reminding myself we were leaving the next day or I might have bought several pounds of meat.

Anais explained that while the Greek diet was healthy, it was originally slightly limited as it was focused on local seasonal produce so you will see the same ingredients in different dishes.  And the Greeks love their nuts and sesame seeds.  Halva, Tahini and koulouri all draw on sesame seeds with Halva being the sweet option around Easter for those who have cut chocolate out of their diet.

By now, we were tired and high on sugar so a quick stop in a local meze restaurant (Stou Meidani) was welcome.  If you make Tzatziki, you are probably doing it wrong.  Honestly, I promise I’m not lying.  The jolt of garlic served up in this creamy yoghurt and cucumber was out of this world and next time I enjoy a late-night kebab, I believe I might shed a tear thinking about it.  The Courgette Balls and Bouyardi Feta (baked feta in a tomato sauce) were good too but honestly, I might sell the less useful members of my family for some of that Tzatziki.

Then in quick succession, we visited a local cold meat seller, spice store and bakery.  Committed cooks will get lost in Fotsis discussing the various herbs, teas and spices on offer.  A feast for the senses as well as the eyes

I adore delis – even those which seem more upmarket than practical and Anais led us into a gorgeous shop full of sandwashed wooden shelves holding all manner of wine, liquor, oils and of course cheese.  Clustered around a table we nibbled on real Greek yoghurt, tasted olive oil and enjoyed Mastic Tears.  Produced on Chios – and only produced on Chios due to its unique climate, Mastic is a resin of a particular tree which can either be used as a gum (mastic – think about it) or more recently turned into a liquor.   Personally, I’m sticking to Honey Bourbon but when in Athens I suppose.

The Tour was rounded off with a Souvlaki – in a gorgeous soft pillow of a pita with tomatoes, chips and tzatziki in the colorful neighborhood of Syntagma.  Athens is a living breathing city as well as the home to some truly amazing antiquities and Syntagma is where the young Greeks go out at night – trendy, littered with gorgeous bars and great little restaurants in a urban setting.  I can’t recommend it more.

And with that my friend and I nipped off to have a cocktail overlooking the Acropolis to rest our feet and generally enjoy being warm!  Athens Food tour?  Sign me up for more!

Don't forget to follow me on Twitter @alittleofwhatyou

Lx

 

A Little Outpost of Lebanon in London

London in the sunshine is a thing of beauty - chaotic, frenetic and simply glorious. Now as a Londoner, Oxford Circus is not a typical destination as it is cluttered with tourists but I found myself navigating down Regent Street to Aline of Lebanon for lunch with a contact.

With the rise of chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi and restaurants like Palomar, London has renewed its interest in food from this corner of the world.  A cuisine which seems to take its inspiration from Turkey and its Mediterranean neighbors - offering a wide spread of meze - but with a sweet often moreish kick.

Aline of Lebanon is a little Mayfair for my tastes with decor that is clean and light (gorgeous plates and cutlery though) but takes inspiration from Middle Eastern Cinema.  There are also a selection of tall willowy creatures wafting in and out but no matter, my companion and I focused on the menu.

Thyme and Rose G&T were strong with a real hit of rose but not cheap at £9 a short (I shall have to explain this to my finance department later).  We ordered a selection of Meze which arrived in good time and with a little flourish.

Hommus (their spelling not mine) as good as were the flat breads that arrived to carry this staple to our hungry mouths.  Fattoush - the ubiquitous salad of herbs, tomato and cucumber - was boosted by sumac and pomegranate seeds but was a little heavy on the parsley so you rather felt you were enjoying some gorgeously tasty grass cuttings.

Now I’ve seen Kibbeh on TV before but I’ve never had chance to try these minced lamb and burghal balls stuffed with lamb, onion and pine nuts.  They were tasty but curiously dry so the chilli sauce they provided when I asked really helped.  I suggest this is offered as standard!

Chicken wings (the only dish I managed not to photograph due to sheer greed) were a triumph, beautifully charred with a sprinkling of spices and falling off the bone.  These alone would be worth visiting Aline for but I would avoid the prawns as they were sadly a little tough and dry. 

What is life without potatoes?  We ordered Bata harrah which is a little like Spanish Patatas Bravas but with crispier potatoes and no lovely tomato sauce to cut the dryness - it could have done with some.

We merrily munched our way through the dishes as we put the world to rights, swapped interesting gossip and generally did a grand job of catching up.  Then the bill arrived and I was reminded that we were very much in Mayfair.

The food is good - but I’ve had cheaper, more authentic and tastier elsewhere - apart from the chicken wings!  Perhaps I might stick to those next time!

L xx

English Tapas at The Somers Town Coffee House

While London Euston is a fantastic transport hub, it can be a little impersonal full of chain restaurants welcoming people from the four corners of the globe who want a quick bite.  However, five minutes’ walk away you find little London neighborhoods with hidden foodie gems and a few gorgeous pubs including The Somers Town Coffee House.]

A glorious mixture of local drinking hole and after work pub, The Somers Town Coffee House recently unveiled an English tapas menu which works with its traditional yet funky vibe.  So where else would a South African Londoner meet her BFF who happens to be a Mancunian of Chinese heritage for a long overdue catch up?

Having fought our way to the bar, we set about menu negotiation.  That’s what tapas is about isn’t it?  I’ll give you squid if you give me chicken wings but neither of us wants the superfood salad?  We are PR girls but really not that type of PR girls!   Having ordered, we proceeded to deconstruct our weeks, lives and everything in between as we kept checking the pass to see when dinner might pitch up.

Everything arrived at about the same time which was no mean feat given the array of options we chose!  Chicken Waffles (not very English I know but who is going to argue about succulent crispy chicken with a soft sweet waffle ... heathens that is who)  complemented the oozy carby goodness of the 'Hash and Eggs' .   No fighting right?  You know BFF's right!  

Personally I believe everything tastes better with Pork and ribs can be a work of genius.  If only Leonardo had given up that art thing and focused on what was important.  However, the braised sticky ribs in BBQ sauce seemed to lack just a little punch.  Not bad but not quite steal a car and travel cross country to taste either.

Some people are wine connoisseurs (lady petrol as the boy keeps calling it) but my friend and I know chicken wings.   We know good chicken wings, we know bad chicken wings, we know emergency post awards ceremony chicken wings.  And the  The Somers Town Coffee House delivered  "Peri Peri Hot Chick Chick" as they like to call them.  Spiked with chili and spring onions they were extremely moreish but the chili fiend in me could have handled a little more heat.

A good Caesar salad is a thing of beauty - crispy croutons, punchy anchovy and salty Parmesan.  The kitchen had tried to elevate this offering by adding chicken and bacon (sadly not the crispy kind) and while it was nice, it was a little like putting lipstick on the Mona Lisa.  Unnecessary and not entirely satisfactory.

All in all the food wasn't bad but there was one big issue - it was luke-warm!  Yes, all the work that had gone into making these ingredients into something special and it arrive at the table tepid.  Admittedly, it was a busy night but it was so very disappointing and the waitress looked confused.  Yes, hot food please.

So, should you visit?  Most definitely - but make sure that you check the food when it arrives as it could move kind of good to great!

L xx

Don't forget to follow me on twitter @littleofwhatyou

2018 - I'm Back and Raring to go!

So what the actual heck happened to 2017?  To my ambitions to keep talking about food and the glorious places I’ve visited?  To build my profile and share my love of all things edible?  Life!  Life happened and last year was one of the hardest, I have ever had (Note – this isn’t a challenge to the universe).  

I left a role I adored as the company was taken over, the culture changed immeasurably and I was left with a boss who stood for everything I despised.  I was hit with a massive tax bill due to sheer ignorance and my neighbors in Portugal are suing me as they fancy using my private terrace.  Enough to exhausted and crush anyone – even a survivor like me.

And annoyingly – as my best friend – pointed out, the best possible learning experience I could have.  Yes, Learning hurts – in fact, learning sucks but weirdly, I feel stronger as I face the next chapter of my life.  I’ve got a new exciting terrifying role which I know will challenge me and someone who I’m trying to figure out.  Both should be interesting – arguably the boy might be the bit that scares me the most. 

I don’t trust happy!  There, I’ve said it.  I’m waiting for the light at the end of the tunnel to be a freight train.  Do I know what’s coming next?  No but I think its about time I came out of hibernation and said, right lets do this!

Lxx

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @alittleofwhatyou