Saturday, 2 June 2018

Getting Under the Skin of Athens

Weekend breaks are the thing of sanity!  The option to check out by checking in to another city – another culture.  And Athens offers all that and more.  A dose of history in a vibrant slightly spiky city fill of unashamedly patriotic Greeks.  Quite obviously, we had to do the history thing so my friend and I visited the museum before sipping wine with a view of the Acropolis but the food tour the next day was the highlight for this hungry blogger.



Booked via viator, the Athena Food Tour was led by Anais who did a superb job wrangling the American honeymooners, the Russian duo and the slightly hungover Brits.  Meeting at the unholy hour of 9:30 in the morning, we started with koulouri which is the traditional weekday Greek breakfast – essentially a sesame seed covered slightly dry bagel.  Sweet fulfilling but think I might stick to fruit – efkaristo.


As a savory girl through and through, the next stop for Loukoumades scared me.   Ethereally light honey and cinnamon covered Greek donuts which at one point were given to the victors at sporting events served in an Athenian institution. What happened if I didn’t like them?  Would I be barred from the country?  While tooth achingly sweet, they were rather moreish – even for me! 

Almost as an anecdote, we then plunged into the central Athens (Varakios Agora) market – a wonderland for the committed cook.  Used by Grannies and restaurants alike, the produce was simply beautiful – although the wet floors of the fishmarket brought out the princess in me as I raised my skirts and tiptoed swiftly through the chaos.  This is most definitely not just for show and I had to keep reminding myself we were leaving the next day or I might have bought several pounds of meat.


Anais explained that while the Greek diet was healthy, it was originally slightly limited as it was focused on local seasonal produce so you will see the same ingredients in different dishes.  And the Greeks love their nuts and sesame seeds.  Halva, Tahini and koulouri all draw on sesame seeds with Halva being the sweet option around Easter for those who have cut chocolate out of their diet.


By now, we were tired and high on sugar so a quick stop in a local meze restaurant (Stou Meidani) was welcome.  If you make Tzatziki, you are probably doing it wrong.  Honestly, I promise I’m not lying.  The jolt of garlic served up in this creamy yoghurt and cucumber was out of this world and next time I enjoy a late-night kebab, I believe I might shed a tear thinking about it.  The Courgette Balls and Bouyardi Feta (baked feta in a tomato sauce) were good too but honestly, I might sell the less useful members of my family for some of that Tzatziki.


Then in quick succession, we visited a local cold meat seller, spice store and bakery.  Committed cooks will get lost in Fotsis discussing the various herbs, teas and spices on offer.  A feast for the senses as well as the eyes

I adore delis – even those which seem more upmarket than practical and Anais led us into a gorgeous shop full of sandwashed wooden shelves holding all manner of wine, liquor, oils and of course cheese.  Clustered around a table we nibbled on real Greek yoghurt, tasted olive oil and enjoyed Mastic Tears.  Produced on Chios – and only produced on Chios due to its unique climate, Mastic is a resin of a particular tree which can either be used as a gum (mastic – think about it) or more recently turned into a liquor.   Personally, I’m sticking to Honey Bourbon but when in Athens I suppose.


The Tour was rounded off with a Souvlaki – in a gorgeous soft pillow of a pita with tomatoes, chips and tzatziki in the colorful neighborhood of Syntagma.  Athens is a living breathing city as well as the home to some truly amazing antiquities and Syntagma is where the young Greeks go out at night – trendy, littered with gorgeous bars and great little restaurants in a urban setting.  I can’t recommend it more.


And with that my friend and I nipped off to have a cocktail overlooking the Acropolis to rest our feet and generally enjoy being warm!  Athens Food tour?  Sign me up for more!

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Lx








 

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