Getting Under the Skin of Athens

Weekend breaks are the thing of sanity!  The option to check out by checking in to another city – another culture.  And Athens offers all that and more.  A dose of history in a vibrant slightly spiky city fill of unashamedly patriotic Greeks.  Quite obviously, we had to do the history thing so my friend and I visited the museum before sipping wine with a view of the Acropolis but the food tour the next day was the highlight for this hungry blogger.

Booked via viator, the Athena Food Tour was led by Anais who did a superb job wrangling the American honeymooners, the Russian duo and the slightly hungover Brits.  Meeting at the unholy hour of 9:30 in the morning, we started with koulouri which is the traditional weekday Greek breakfast – essentially a sesame seed covered slightly dry bagel.  Sweet fulfilling but think I might stick to fruit – efkaristo.

As a savory girl through and through, the next stop for Loukoumades scared me.   Ethereally light honey and cinnamon covered Greek donuts which at one point were given to the victors at sporting events served in an Athenian institution. What happened if I didn’t like them?  Would I be barred from the country?  While tooth achingly sweet, they were rather moreish – even for me! 

Almost as an anecdote, we then plunged into the central Athens (Varakios Agora) market – a wonderland for the committed cook.  Used by Grannies and restaurants alike, the produce was simply beautiful – although the wet floors of the fishmarket brought out the princess in me as I raised my skirts and tiptoed swiftly through the chaos.  This is most definitely not just for show and I had to keep reminding myself we were leaving the next day or I might have bought several pounds of meat.

Anais explained that while the Greek diet was healthy, it was originally slightly limited as it was focused on local seasonal produce so you will see the same ingredients in different dishes.  And the Greeks love their nuts and sesame seeds.  Halva, Tahini and koulouri all draw on sesame seeds with Halva being the sweet option around Easter for those who have cut chocolate out of their diet.

By now, we were tired and high on sugar so a quick stop in a local meze restaurant (Stou Meidani) was welcome.  If you make Tzatziki, you are probably doing it wrong.  Honestly, I promise I’m not lying.  The jolt of garlic served up in this creamy yoghurt and cucumber was out of this world and next time I enjoy a late-night kebab, I believe I might shed a tear thinking about it.  The Courgette Balls and Bouyardi Feta (baked feta in a tomato sauce) were good too but honestly, I might sell the less useful members of my family for some of that Tzatziki.

Then in quick succession, we visited a local cold meat seller, spice store and bakery.  Committed cooks will get lost in Fotsis discussing the various herbs, teas and spices on offer.  A feast for the senses as well as the eyes

I adore delis – even those which seem more upmarket than practical and Anais led us into a gorgeous shop full of sandwashed wooden shelves holding all manner of wine, liquor, oils and of course cheese.  Clustered around a table we nibbled on real Greek yoghurt, tasted olive oil and enjoyed Mastic Tears.  Produced on Chios – and only produced on Chios due to its unique climate, Mastic is a resin of a particular tree which can either be used as a gum (mastic – think about it) or more recently turned into a liquor.   Personally, I’m sticking to Honey Bourbon but when in Athens I suppose.

The Tour was rounded off with a Souvlaki – in a gorgeous soft pillow of a pita with tomatoes, chips and tzatziki in the colorful neighborhood of Syntagma.  Athens is a living breathing city as well as the home to some truly amazing antiquities and Syntagma is where the young Greeks go out at night – trendy, littered with gorgeous bars and great little restaurants in a urban setting.  I can’t recommend it more.

And with that my friend and I nipped off to have a cocktail overlooking the Acropolis to rest our feet and generally enjoy being warm!  Athens Food tour?  Sign me up for more!

Don't forget to follow me on Twitter @alittleofwhatyou

Lx

 

A Little Outpost of Lebanon in London

London in the sunshine is a thing of beauty - chaotic, frenetic and simply glorious. Now as a Londoner, Oxford Circus is not a typical destination as it is cluttered with tourists but I found myself navigating down Regent Street to Aline of Lebanon for lunch with a contact.

With the rise of chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi and restaurants like Palomar, London has renewed its interest in food from this corner of the world.  A cuisine which seems to take its inspiration from Turkey and its Mediterranean neighbors - offering a wide spread of meze - but with a sweet often moreish kick.

Aline of Lebanon is a little Mayfair for my tastes with decor that is clean and light (gorgeous plates and cutlery though) but takes inspiration from Middle Eastern Cinema.  There are also a selection of tall willowy creatures wafting in and out but no matter, my companion and I focused on the menu.

Thyme and Rose G&T were strong with a real hit of rose but not cheap at £9 a short (I shall have to explain this to my finance department later).  We ordered a selection of Meze which arrived in good time and with a little flourish.

Hommus (their spelling not mine) as good as were the flat breads that arrived to carry this staple to our hungry mouths.  Fattoush - the ubiquitous salad of herbs, tomato and cucumber - was boosted by sumac and pomegranate seeds but was a little heavy on the parsley so you rather felt you were enjoying some gorgeously tasty grass cuttings.

Now I’ve seen Kibbeh on TV before but I’ve never had chance to try these minced lamb and burghal balls stuffed with lamb, onion and pine nuts.  They were tasty but curiously dry so the chilli sauce they provided when I asked really helped.  I suggest this is offered as standard!

Chicken wings (the only dish I managed not to photograph due to sheer greed) were a triumph, beautifully charred with a sprinkling of spices and falling off the bone.  These alone would be worth visiting Aline for but I would avoid the prawns as they were sadly a little tough and dry. 

What is life without potatoes?  We ordered Bata harrah which is a little like Spanish Patatas Bravas but with crispier potatoes and no lovely tomato sauce to cut the dryness - it could have done with some.

We merrily munched our way through the dishes as we put the world to rights, swapped interesting gossip and generally did a grand job of catching up.  Then the bill arrived and I was reminded that we were very much in Mayfair.

The food is good - but I’ve had cheaper, more authentic and tastier elsewhere - apart from the chicken wings!  Perhaps I might stick to those next time!

L xx

English Tapas at The Somers Town Coffee House

While London Euston is a fantastic transport hub, it can be a little impersonal full of chain restaurants welcoming people from the four corners of the globe who want a quick bite.  However, five minutes’ walk away you find little London neighborhoods with hidden foodie gems and a few gorgeous pubs including The Somers Town Coffee House.]

A glorious mixture of local drinking hole and after work pub, The Somers Town Coffee House recently unveiled an English tapas menu which works with its traditional yet funky vibe.  So where else would a South African Londoner meet her BFF who happens to be a Mancunian of Chinese heritage for a long overdue catch up?

Having fought our way to the bar, we set about menu negotiation.  That’s what tapas is about isn’t it?  I’ll give you squid if you give me chicken wings but neither of us wants the superfood salad?  We are PR girls but really not that type of PR girls!   Having ordered, we proceeded to deconstruct our weeks, lives and everything in between as we kept checking the pass to see when dinner might pitch up.

Everything arrived at about the same time which was no mean feat given the array of options we chose!  Chicken Waffles (not very English I know but who is going to argue about succulent crispy chicken with a soft sweet waffle ... heathens that is who)  complemented the oozy carby goodness of the 'Hash and Eggs' .   No fighting right?  You know BFF's right!  

Personally I believe everything tastes better with Pork and ribs can be a work of genius.  If only Leonardo had given up that art thing and focused on what was important.  However, the braised sticky ribs in BBQ sauce seemed to lack just a little punch.  Not bad but not quite steal a car and travel cross country to taste either.

Some people are wine connoisseurs (lady petrol as the boy keeps calling it) but my friend and I know chicken wings.   We know good chicken wings, we know bad chicken wings, we know emergency post awards ceremony chicken wings.  And the  The Somers Town Coffee House delivered  "Peri Peri Hot Chick Chick" as they like to call them.  Spiked with chili and spring onions they were extremely moreish but the chili fiend in me could have handled a little more heat.

A good Caesar salad is a thing of beauty - crispy croutons, punchy anchovy and salty Parmesan.  The kitchen had tried to elevate this offering by adding chicken and bacon (sadly not the crispy kind) and while it was nice, it was a little like putting lipstick on the Mona Lisa.  Unnecessary and not entirely satisfactory.

All in all the food wasn't bad but there was one big issue - it was luke-warm!  Yes, all the work that had gone into making these ingredients into something special and it arrive at the table tepid.  Admittedly, it was a busy night but it was so very disappointing and the waitress looked confused.  Yes, hot food please.

So, should you visit?  Most definitely - but make sure that you check the food when it arrives as it could move kind of good to great!

L xx

Don't forget to follow me on twitter @littleofwhatyou

2018 - I'm Back and Raring to go!

So what the actual heck happened to 2017?  To my ambitions to keep talking about food and the glorious places I’ve visited?  To build my profile and share my love of all things edible?  Life!  Life happened and last year was one of the hardest, I have ever had (Note – this isn’t a challenge to the universe).  

I left a role I adored as the company was taken over, the culture changed immeasurably and I was left with a boss who stood for everything I despised.  I was hit with a massive tax bill due to sheer ignorance and my neighbors in Portugal are suing me as they fancy using my private terrace.  Enough to exhausted and crush anyone – even a survivor like me.

And annoyingly – as my best friend – pointed out, the best possible learning experience I could have.  Yes, Learning hurts – in fact, learning sucks but weirdly, I feel stronger as I face the next chapter of my life.  I’ve got a new exciting terrifying role which I know will challenge me and someone who I’m trying to figure out.  Both should be interesting – arguably the boy might be the bit that scares me the most. 

I don’t trust happy!  There, I’ve said it.  I’m waiting for the light at the end of the tunnel to be a freight train.  Do I know what’s coming next?  No but I think its about time I came out of hibernation and said, right lets do this!

Lxx

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @alittleofwhatyou

The Mad Hatters Tipsy Evening Tea at the Sanderson

I’ve always rather liked Alice in Wonderland.  A precocious child asking annoying questions in another plane of existence.  Plus – well CATS!  So when one of my closest friends suggested The Mad Hatters Tipsy Evening Tea at the Sanderson for my 40^th, I make a very unladylike “squee” of excitement and a Friday night was booked.

For those of you are not familiar with the Sanderson, it is a gorgeous achingly hip hotel in the heart of London’s West End which doesn’t take itself too seriously or set out to intimidate us normal people. One glass of bubbly sitting at the bar ignites your inner Carrie Bradshaw and you can almost glimpse ‘Big’ just around the corner.   But back to our tea!  

Miraculously, we both arrived at about the same time and were quickly seated in the little garden area at the front of the hotel.  Perfect to enjoy one of the few warm days of summer in the UK.   Having explained that my companion was a vegetarian, we were soon presented with a spread that the Mad Hatter would envy – complete with four little boozy potions to wash these nibbles and a book to remind ourselves what we were enjoying.

Presented on a silver tray, the mini cocktails – a kir Royal, fruit punch, martini and buckfast - edged towards the sweet and strawberry inspired but were more than alcoholic enough to satisfy an exhausted Lawyer and PR.    O the joys of getting older and more responsible when Friday nights are needed to recharge rather than rave.

Although given the amount of sugar we ingested I’m fairly sure I could manage at least a few hours on the dance floor.  And what glorious sugar it was – off set with some truly scrumptious savoury treats.

Truffles and  ‘magic’ marshmallow mushrooms topped the cake stand followed by a tier including crab roll, a smoked salmon scotch egg and a tomato pastry tart.   Well, made tasty and definitely no scrimping on the filling.

The bottom tier included gorgeous (and I mean gorgeous) mustard and mozzarella scones with herb butter, sinful chocolate-rum gateau as well as the worlds cutest macaroons complete with royal insignia.   The child inside me rejoiced when we were presented with Alice’s naughty orange and Cointreau “ Drink Me” potion - too cute for words although a little milky to be entirely adored.  

More than generously, they also provided crouque monsieur on a separate plate and they left us alone to enjoy.  And we did, putting the world to rights in the warm Friday night Soho buzz!   Attentive while not intimidating the service was impeccable and we were persuaded to stay for a glass of champagne before toddling off into the night.

A gorgeous - thoroughly recommended indulgence with one of my favourite people in the heart of London.

L xx

Don't forget to follow me on twitter @littleofwhatyou 

Hungover in Dubrovnik

Last year was – to be frank – awful!  Following a merger, I found myself working with people who fundamentally challenged my core values and made me feel that all my experience – at the heart of how I make decisions – was worthless.  After several months, I did final did something that I should have done far sooner, I resigned.  My mental, physical and emotional health was far more important.

And (after the world’s longest notice period) I left – without a job to go to – but with the lightest feeling in my soul I had had for 18-months.   To celebrate my emancipation, my best friend booked us a long weekend in Dubrovnik.

For those of you who have yet to succumb to the Game of Thrones hysteria, the Old City of Dubrovnik in Croatia is the setting for Kings Landing and arguably one of the prettiest towns around.  Our arrival was typically hysterical.   Imagine two very hungover PR’s after two flights (London to Zagreb and Zagreb to Dubrovnik – no direct flights in February) and a half hour taxi ride from the airport along cliff top roads to the Old Town with Lewis Hamilton’s Croatian Brother.

We were flagging – I might even have been whimpering – when the nice taxi driver stopped talking on his mobile, pulled up at the outskirts of Dubrovnik and told us that it was a walking town so we needed to hop to it.   A wet winding walk though a glorious stone Disney land led us to the worlds cutest Airbnb nestled in the harbour walls.

And a nap – thank the gods of Westeros – for a nap!   Having started the day with a bloody Mary and a few peanut snacks, we were now hungry and consulting “aunty google” as to the best restaurant to sooth our fragile souls.  And Konoba Dalmatino popped up!   A restaurant based on the ‘slow food’ concept with a little Croatian fairy dust run by a South African Export – what is not to love.

So what is Croatian food?  It is local with each region having its specialities (Dubrovnik celebrates Dalmatian food) and you can see echoes of Greek, Italian, Turkish and Hungarian cuisines.   After all, this is a country on the Mediterranean – something that is often forgotten.  They also celebrate local food and providence is key.

Having tackled the warren of Dubrovnik old town, we stumbled through the door into a warm comforting world and an eclectic exciting menu which played to locally sourced produce.   The discussion was intense, who tried what and what wine was right. 

Some might imagine that a day off the sauce might be the best cure for a hangover but we are made of sterner stuff and chose a gorgeous bottle of Croatian red.  Prior to arriving I knew nothing about Croatian wine but soon fell in love with the bold rounded flavors of their reds – just the right anecdote for the wet wild weather they were experiencing.

I chose Octopus Salad – a glorious mixture of soft unctuous seafood with capers, onions and tomato – and my friend was seduced by the local mussels.   Or rather, I think she might have been trying to seduce them given the joy and noises that I could hear from the other side of the table.  Before, I wondered if privacy might be the right way forward, mains arrived.

I had veal skewers with smoked bacon, porcini mushroom risotto and chili mint sauce.  Veal is a difficult meat to eat in that I wish it didn’t exist, I wish that diary didn’t see thousands of male calves have horribly short lives but I don’t know the answer and want to support those who keep it local.  Succulent and tasty, this Croatian take on veal was a true guilty pleasure.

My friend chose truffle pasta and due to the fact that this is a child friendly blog, I’ve decided not to dwell on this anymore but suffice to say, she seemed very happy – flushed even.  And so we stumbled into the night, heading to bed and three more days of adventure in Dubrovnik – a glorious walking city with fantastic food that you must visit.

Lx

Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @littleofwhatyou

A taste of Indian in Devonshire Square - Cinnamon Kitchen

Location, Location, Location may be the mantra in the property market but when it comes to finding a restaurant for three busy women including a foodie, a veggie and a whirlwind, it’s pretty key.  Thankfully living in London, we don’t need to sacrifice taste for location and found a hidden gem at Liverpool Street.

Cinnamon Kitchen is the more accessible sister of Westminster’s Cinnamon Club – serving the same modern eclectic Indian without price tag.  Housed in contemporary space with indoor and outdoor options in Devonshire Square, it was a little empty as we arrived on a wet Wintry Monday night, prepared to catch up on love, life and career with perhaps a bit of food and wine on the side.

The wine – from the wide ranging and not overly pricey wine list – arrived quickly with a mystery amuse bouche.  Well, if we had been listening to the lovely waitress, it would not be a mystery but it was tasty, vegetarian and made us hungry enough to stop the character assassination and consider the menu.

Starters arrive quickly and we were soon tucking into crumbed Indian spice chickpea cake pieces with mango chutney which had a satisfying KFC crunch.  I adore Indian food but am woefully ignorant about the spice alchemy behind the flavors - that said, the chef in the kitchen is a genius.  Or at least he was when he was conjuring the sharing kebab platter that the meat eaters tucked into without too much jostling or fighting over choice pieces.

Pork isn't a more common Indian ingredient outside Portuguese inspired Goa but the beauty of the Cinnamon Kitchen is that they take inspiration from across this colourful continent.  And char-grilled honey and chili  glazed pork ribs are pretty inspirational as well as sticky, dirty and hard to share.

I'm not a cheesophile but Paneer isn't too bad.  Not worth swapping a good rib for but a great option for a veggie - especially when its done with a lovely spicy Indian tomato sauce with a kick of heat.  The final member of our Trio chose Tandoori spiced red deer with pickled root vegetable, yogurt sauce which seems a little wrong at Christmas but at least it wasn't reindeer.

An excellent evening with gorgeous food and excellent service!  Well, the waitress might have been a little heavy handed with the wine but we did drink it so I can hardly blame her for my thick head in the morning.

Lx

Don't forget to follow me @littleofwhatyou