My best friend’s brother has been staying with me while he
works on the Olympics and while he is not hugely difficult, he does get on my
nerves as I suppose I’ve been living on my own for 7 years and am just not used
to sharing my sanctuary.
Thus, I was taken out to L’Escargot in Soho
as a thank-you treat. This restaurant
has been going in various incarnations since the 20s and currently Marco Pierre
White is the chef. I was expecting
great things – and I must admit I was left pondering rather than marvelling.
We entered the restaurant and were shown to our table by a
very sweet French (I later learnt) Maitre’d.
The restaurant is done in muted shades of cream and the collective atmosphere
is of old school slightly tarnished and just a little reserved glamour – a look
that Soho wears well.
The menu focused on the traditional and I started with 12 snails while my friend had Foie Gras. Now I know the latter is banned in
My snails were excellent – sitting on smears of mashed
potato with the most glorious garlic butter.
I did ask for a little bread with mine and the waiter didn’t even bat an
eye lid – yes, they focus on helping people enjoy their meals rather than
judging them.
For my main, I had roast rabbit leg stuffed with olives
and tomatoes, pearly barley and risotto and my friend had the marinated rump of
lamb with Scottish girroles and olive jus.
The portions were small but perfectly formed and despite my rabbit being
a touch overpowered by the olive stuffing, the food again was really good.
And as we sipped out mint tea and espresso, I looked
around the restaurant and felt a little sad.
The room only had a few tables and I missed the slight buzz of people
enjoy a wonderful meal with friends. It
might be due to the fact that it was a Thursday at the end of August or because
it was just at the end of the school holidays but the room felt strangely
empty.
So while the food was lovely, the company was great and
the staff really nice, I can’t help wonder if L’Escargot in its current incarnation
could do with an update / a shock / something to breathe a little more life
into the place! Being a classic does not
mean evolution is out of the question.
I would hate to see it loose its character but I suspect
that to have survived so long, it has learnt to adapt and now might be the
right time to try on a slightly smarter suit.
Lxx
Follow me on twitter @littleofwhatyou
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