The Best Pizza in Malta

I’ve worked in an Italian restaurant so when someone tells me that ‘they have the best pizza in Malta’, I worry.  Malta only has 400,000 permanent residents and while it is reassuringly close to Italy, it is still quite small.  Is this a bit like when my father claimed I was his favourite daughter (he only has one)?

However, I was curious enough to visit Margo's St. Julian to see what the fuss was about.  The restaurant does not pay homage to the old traditional ‘Mom and Pop’ restaurants which proliferate across Italy but something rather new.  The lines are clean, the space open, the furniture dark wood and there are loads of windows.  However, while it is clean, when rather empty (which is was the day after the election party), it does come across as a little sterile.

 The menu is extensive – both for wine and food.  However, it does try to be a little too clever, rather than simply stating the name, it tells a story and – somewhat bizarrely – everything that is not Pizza is jammed under starters.  Unless of course, you tend to have a full rack of ribs to start.

However, that said, when you work through the verbage, the pizza toppings are inspired.  YUM is pretty much the best description.   All the ingredients are fresh and appear to be not only locally sourced but from artisans.  Try the L’Affumicata  – smoked mozzarella, pancetta and sliced onion or the Maltese – tomatoes, sausage and pork or the Funghi – just so mushroomy.

Credit: André Baranowski

I had the Capricciosa with artichokes, mushrooms and pancetta – with anchovies.  Don’t judge me, I’m happy and it went with the fantastic South African red wine we were drinking.  The crust was thin and chewy which is a sign of excellent pizza, the toppings were fresh, tasty and generous.  I was in love.  In fact, I’ve probably dated men I like less than this pizza.

While I admired the concept of the orgasmic chocolate mousse (that is what the menu said), I was just too stuffed full of pizza.  And what did I learn?  Well, Malta might be small but it does some damn good pizza.

Lx

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